In recent years, the dancing, singing, Knafeh bakers have reinvigorated Sydney's multicultural street food scene.
Dapper brothers Ameer and Joey El-Issa, also known as The Bearded Bakers, run a pop-up out of a shipping container, specialising in one mouthwatering item: the dairy dessert knafeh.
“Coming from a Palestinian background, food and culture and music were always a big part and remain a big part of who we are,” says Ameer.
The rich creamy, cheesy dessert is steeped in Middle Eastern history, with countless variations.
While the origin of their famous Palestinian street dessert is disputed, this particular recipe is handed down from mother to son.
The Bearded Bakers' famed knafeh dessert. Source: SBS
“You get so proud, when your kids take your dish to another level, especially when everyone is loving it," Ameer's mum Nabila says. "When you look at people and they are enjoying it, that is beyond happiness,”
For the El-Issas, good food and even better entertainment goes hand-in-hand.
The Bearded Bakers are famous for their exuberant singing and dancing, and have a huge online following. As their Knafeh pop-up moves to different suburbs, it's as much a travelling concert as a food destination.
“You've got all these charming good-looking, well-groomed bearded men... you know, it's become an incredible force,” says Ameer.
“[With] our upbringing, we're always cooking and entertaining at home. And then we fell into the hospitality game and we realised, ‘Hey, this is like apples.’ Ameer says.
During last year's lockdowns, particularly in Victoria, they found a way to pivot and still keep dancing. It brought relief to many loyal fans during the toughest months of the pandemic.
“We launched a drive-through service and realised there was a big gap in the market,” Ameer tells SBS Small Business Secrets.
“We realised that we can still be who we are, dancing on people's bonnets and having fun and bringing joy to people.”
Since the business started six years ago, it’s expanded from Sydney to Melbourne, New York and Lebanon.
Ameer El-Issa, Creative Director of Knafeh. Source: SBS Lin Evlin
And they’re now moving on to what they hope will be the first of its kind: a Middle Eastern dumpling house.
Their new business idea pivots from sweet to savoury, while still celebrating their Palestinian heritage.
“There is so much more to Middle Eastern cuisine than just baba ghanoush and falafel, and we wanted to showcase that." Ameer says.
Chiche barak - a middle eastern lamb and pine nut dumpling. Source: SBS
Chiche barak – lamb and pine nut dumplings served in a bed of yoghurt – is one of many dishes they’ll be plating at their new restaurant.
The Bearded Bakers plan to launch the business before the end of the year.
