Iris Ni is a mother of three who is busy making batches of pork and chive dumplings for Lunar New Year festivities at her home in St Ives, on Sydney's Upper North Shore.
Hand rolling the dumpling skins is a delicate process, learned from her mother in Cambodia decades ago.
As a young girl, Iris began cooking from 5am each day to feed her extended family, who were living in Phnom Penh, after they lost their rural rice wine business.
Iris’s family are originally from China and were among the millions displaced during the Cambodian Civil War. They fled Kampong Cham, on the Mekong River in southeastern Cambodia, later opening a grocery store in the capital.
“I needed to help my mum because she went to the shop from four in the morning. So by 5am, before school, I needed to get up to help her prepare breakfast and do other chores," the now 38-year-old tells SBS.
Iris (right) with her younger sister in Cambodia. Source: Supplied
“It's quite a tough job for a nine-year-old girl to do all that daily housework because we didn't have a washing machine. You needed to wash the clothes by hand.”
Iris moved to Australia as a student in 2009. This week, she is busy using her traditional cooking skills to prepare home-delivered meals for Lunar New Year (Friday 12 February), earning an income to support her family in Australia.
She is among a growing number of home cooks selling their creations online through delivery platform Food St.
With many events cancelled due to gathering restrictions, families are changing the way they welcome the Year of the Ox, she says.
“It's a bit sad because the kids always want to see their grandparents and this year we not able to [travel home to Cambodia] see each other because of COVID-19.”
International border closures are impacting many families who would normally visit their loved ones offshore, and are instead celebrating at home in Australia.
Iris (centre front) with her extended family in Cambodia. Source: Supplied
“A lot of people try not to go out too much, and many are not eating in restaurants. A lot of people, including us, are having food at home. So we've got a lot of food deliveries for them.”
Home cooks go online
Food St was founded by Lorraine Gnanadickam, who says it’s providing a lifeline for many cooks struggling to survive the pandemic.
“During COVID-19, lots of people who were working in the hospitality industry had their hours cut and were looking for new ways to earn some extra income,” she said.
“So we've had an influx of home cooks, many from diverse backgrounds, selling on our site.”
Many restaurants are also offering Lunar New Year specials for home delivery. General Chao is a premium Asian restaurant catering to the large Chinese community in Sydney’s Chatswood.
Lorraine Gnanadickam runs Food St. Source: SBS
“Food specials will be available for takeaway on delivery platforms for inhouse ordering, so customers can share with family in their own homes,” director Sam Werrett said.
With seating limited by social distancing requirements, diners who choose to eat in the restaurant are also offered individual dishes to cut down on group sharing.
The demand for online food ordering and delivery platforms has risen by 12 per cent during the pandemic, according to research by IBISWorld.
Iris Ni with her husband Alex, son Braydon, and daughters Carol and Chloe (left). Source: SBS
“COVID changed everything,” said John Saadie, founder of OrderUp! which enables restaurants to handle home delivery in-house.
“We now have restaurants doing pick up delivery and even ordering [online] at the table, so it's as contactless as possible.”
Among the traditional specialities available for home delivery are Iris's moon cakes, sweetened with red bean paste and coconut.
“Moon cakes are round and Chinese people like to sit at a round table, so moon cakes symbolise family getting together for Lunar New Year," she says.
“I hope the food we bring them makes families feel less stressed and they celebrate more easily.”
Lunar New Year falls on 12 February 2021, with events and celebrations across Australia being held in the days before and after. .
SBS will launch a new Chinese-language digital service to coincide with the Lunar New Year: .
Australians are also invited to mark Lunar New Year celebrations with a curated content line-up .
